Weeknight · 10 minutes
A Three-Egg Herb Omelette, Three Ways
An omelette is the dish a French restaurant interview begins with. The right one tells you everything about the cook — heat control, timing, restraint. Here is how to make all three respectable versions.
Prep
5 min
Cook
5 min
Total
10 min
Serves
1
There are roughly three good omelettes. The French-style is pale, custardy, folded into a tight cylinder; the country-style is browned, flat, fully set; the rolled cheese omelette is somewhere between. They are all useful. We make all three depending on the morning.
The only ingredient that genuinely matters is butter, and the temperature of the pan. Three eggs, a generous knob of butter, a small pan (8 or 9 inches), and high heat for the French, medium for the others. Whisk the eggs with a fork rather than a whisk — you want them mixed but not aerated.
A herb omelette is the gentlest version — chives and parsley folded in at the last second. Tarragon if you have it. The herbs go in raw and barely cook.
Method
- Beat the eggs. Crack the eggs into a bowl. Add the salt and pepper. Beat with a fork for 30 seconds — until uniformly yellow and slightly frothy, but not whipped to foam.
- French-style (folded, pale). Heat the pan over medium-high. Add the butter; when it foams but before it browns, pour in the eggs. Immediately stir with the back of a spatula in small circles while shaking the pan, for about 20 seconds — the eggs will form small curds. Stop stirring as soon as the eggs are mostly set but still wet on top. Tilt the pan, fold one third over the center, then slide onto a plate, rolling it into a cylinder with the herbs scattered on top.
- Country-style (flat, browned). Heat the pan over medium. Add the butter; let it foam and lightly brown. Stir the herbs into the beaten eggs and pour in. Cook undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottom is set and lightly golden, then gently lift one edge and let any uncooked egg flow underneath. Cook another minute until just set on top. Slide onto a plate, folded in half or flat.
- Rolled with cheese. As for French-style, but add the grated cheese in a line across the center just before folding. Roll into a cylinder so the cheese melts inside.
A French omelette should look like an old man's yellow handkerchief. Pale, soft, and slightly creased.
Notes & substitutions
- Pan size For three eggs, 8 or 9 inches. Bigger and the omelette is too thin to fold.
- Heat French is hot and fast. Country is moderate and slower. Get this wrong and the texture is off.
- Herbs Soft herbs only. Rosemary and thyme are too woody.
- To serve Crusty bread, a small green salad with a sharp vinaigrette. Done.
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